Massolino “Barolo Vigna Rionda Riserva” — Serralunga’s Deep Voice, Sung in Silk

Massolino’s Vigna Rionda Riserva is a reference-point Barolo from one of the Langhe’s greatest crus—a south–southwest slope in Serralunga whose ancient sandstone and marl give power, perfume and remarkable length. The nose opens with rose and violet layered over red cherry and pomegranate, then darker tones of black tea, liquorice, blood orange and a cool, iron–mineral thread that is unmistakably Serralunga. Winemaking is classical and transparent to place. Hand-harvested Nebbiolo is gently but thoroughly macerated to draw fine, long-chained tannins; maturation follows in large Slavonian oak casks, with release delayed to allow the wine to knit. Oak reads as cadence and polish rather than flavour—structure is shaped, not seasoned—so terroir sits centre stage. On the palate the wine is vertical and layered: silken fruit up front, a tightly woven, stony core through the mid-palate, and a long, dry finish that echoes rose, sweet spice and salted cherry. With air, nuances of cedar, dried herbs and cocoa nib emerge, adding complexity without weight. It is authoritative yet graceful—an archetypal Vigna Rionda in its poise and inner perfume. Serve at 16–18 °C in large Burgundy stems; young bottles benefit from a 1–2 hour decant to relax the mid-palate and lift aromatics. Pair with tajarin and ragù, porcini risotto, roast lamb with rosemary, veal with truffle, or hard cheeses such as aged Parmigiano Reggiano—the wine’s freshness and fine tannins keep richness in balance. Cellaring is central to its promise. While captivating on release, Vigna Rionda Riserva typically begins to sing from 7–10 years after the harvest and can evolve gracefully for 20 years or more in strong vintages—trading primary cherry and florals for tobacco, leather, balsamic and sweet-earth depth while retaining that chiselled, mineral frame. This is Serralunga at full resolution: powerful, precise, and exquisitely composed.
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